Exceptional value for lunch, all the more since you can make it a "formule", without dessert or first, even without both.
That was suprising to see in early April. We only had some truffle in our dishes, and that was great. But the smells from the table next to us demonstrated that Besson is a champion of sourcing truffles. We discussed it in detail with the captain who ended up bringing us the pot of fresh truffles -- extraordinary, the only great truffles I had -- rather met -- this year
Mousselines de volaille truffées dans une crème d'asperges
That day's special -- rougets and févettes salad. For once I'll let the picture talk...
Red mullet is perfectly fresh, perfectly cooked, slightly crispy on top -- you can see why it's called red mullet. Févettes so springy and magical. The hint of mint and olive show the trademark of a great chef.
I had a bite and it was extraordinary. The quenelle was obviously very finely mixed, very onctuous. Truffle flavour is intense and deep, carried by that fine chicken juice, and the asparagus brings some sweetness and incomparable onctuosity. Something slightly gelatinous about it, pretty great.
Seriously, what starred restaurant offers omelette? That's all it is. Mushrooms with great depth of taste, truffled veal juice.
The omelette is a wonderful exercise in texture too. inside is onctuous, outside just slightly dried. And that great support for the earthy flavours of mushroom and truffle.
Can one be anymore classic? It's even outdated in the way that meat is overcooked by today's standards. But those recipes (including the pigeon you don't see here) would not be better with a more actual "à point" cooking. They are perfect as they are.
Morceaux nobles de lapin en feuilletage, crème de morilles
Game menu, oct 08
Lunch menu, oct 08
This late fall visit was somewhat disappointing, lacked oomph, and, as to make it more annoying, was rather expensive at 180pp without dessert or cheese. To be fair we had a Magnum of 1985 Madiran - magnums are the way to go with Besson's wine list, they're where the good value is.
Amuse of brandade de cabillaud, fresh, very well made, without suprise
Damier de chevreuil et foie gras, same (very good, very well made, very old fashion)
Langoustines pochées dans une crème froide de cresson
Vol-au-vent de ris et rognons de veau -- ris are tender, not dry at all, and rognons are powerful
Rable de lièvre rôti, sauce poivrade, chou rouge, purée de céleri -- again , this is a bit too much cooked for my taste but this definitely is Besson's style (not sure that sauce would actually work that well with a pinkier hare)
