Looks same as last time -- but this chips with vegetables had some sort of caviar inside. Worked fine.
Advocado and tomato was purely an amuse to rinse the mouth before eating. Bland and fresh.
Three butters from the Marais Breton, from Bellivaire (salted, peppered, and seaweed)
This pocket tripod is my new secret. Not discreet but efficient (see my night pics from my US trip)
The three Cancale oysters, some flat belons, the first one was plain and already incredibly intense. This one, coming second, was the impulse in that composition -- grilled buckwheat and nutmeg oil. It was an orderly explosion, with the buckwheat and the oysters rigorously interlaced, perfectly complementary to one another.
Then came, as a conclusion, as an ad libitum, the third oyster, with flax weeds and hazelnut oil. This was all duration, and seriously this composition was still evolving in my mouth fourty seconds after I swallowed it. On the whole, that dish was a really great example of the unique talent of Roellinger.
Classic araignée à l'oseille sauvage de la falaise, vinaigrette flibustier -- spider crab and wild sorrel (from the cliff), rouille vinaigrette. Some advocado quenelle in the background. It's signature Roellinger, because it is jewelry-tuned sauce, super-fresh seafood, and an ever slightly evolving recipe (never had the advocado recipe before)
We insisted to have that one, not really on the tasting menu: ormeaux à la cancalaise -- simple poelé abalone with garlic, herbs and butter. Served with the younger brother on the side and some very britton mashed potatoes, not a purée as you can see, but just local new potatoes barely mashed. Those are just great abalone, big, super-firm and chewy, but who then become melty at some point. Such a rare experience -- I'm glad we insisted (and mostly I'm glad they caved in)
As far as I can tell, only the vegetables changed in that dish -- lobster with cocoa and Xeres wine, another demonstration of what a fine saucier Roellinger is -- dip your lobster in the cocoa powder and get some sauce with it. The quality of the lobster was very good, but not wonderful, pinches and tail cooked separately and perfectly.
The barbue and the sunny sauce (someone had a turbot instead) -- citrus emulsion, some "talauma d'halong" vinaigrette (a vietnamese spice replacing the curcuma from last november), kumquat
"Pour le foie gras de Monsieur Dupérier, des cubes de céleri, une pulpe de mangues vertes dans un consommé de volaille réglisse-menthe." -- a total miss. Foie gras was as bad as it looked, green mango overpowering and super sour, consommé too sweet.
My cheese plate was the best. Gruyère on the left hand side, and on the right, from top to bottom: tomme de vache, old Stilton, (great) Livarot, and rond lochois (a goat cheese). In many places, the chutneys and other sides for the cheese are a gimmick. Here, they are yet another proof of the chef's finesse and constitute great pairings: prune and wine condiment for the gruyère, vinaigre celtique (reduction of apple and cider) in the middle, raw cream for the tomme, chutney de Saint Malo (pineapple and apple and ?) for the Livarot, tomato chutney for the Lochois.
Framboise du jardin et gelée à la fleur de sureau -- very fresh raspberries from their own garden, elder flower gelée. Healthy and pleasant, finely balanced as always.
Sweet and sour and warm and hot: lemongrass poached pineapple, muscovado ice-cream, and a hot curry sauce. Remarkable combination, original yet evident when you taste it.
The last dessert is one of everyone's favourite -- the famous Roellinger grog: cider, rhum, exotic fruits and secret spices. Makes you wish you were ill (Grog is the traditional remedy for flus and colds, the French dayquill). It come with a one-bite baba au rhum as well. By the way, that's not the right picture.
The people working in this restaurant have some grey hair now, they are slowly getting used to the universal recognition it once seemed they would never get. Nevertheless, sometimes there is new staff and as you can see it is well trained (Ptipois took this photo)
Samousa d'andouille au curry; chips de betteraves; maquereau au feu de bois
crevettes grise dans une emulsion de bisque de crevette; tartare de daurade, avocat gingembre; bigorneaux dans une emulsion de raifort (horseradish)
Saint Pierre (John Dory): marine au gingembre et emulsion de gingembre; tartare et carotte; tartare et mangue verte
avec du vinaigre celtique (a reduction of apple and cider)
Bouillon d'automne (duck?), petits ormeaux et foie gras
Homard au vin de Xeres et Cacao -- extraordinaire
Barbue en croute de sesame et pavot, kumquat confit, sauce curcuma, soja germe et courgettes -- un poisson des mers froides recontre le soleil
Agneau de l'Aubrac au Tamarin